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Say Hello to a River

In 1960, John Graves said goodbye to this river before the dams could take it. They never came. The water's still running — come say hello.

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The River That Never Said Goodbye

Goodbye to a River is one of the most-loved books ever written about Texas — a farewell paddle down the Brazos before a series of dams was set to drown it. The dams never came. Today, the river still cuts through the same limestone hills and cliffs Graves wrote about, and the John Graves Scenic Riverway carries his name for a reason. This is your invitation to go find out why.

The Byway

 

An hour behind the wheel gets you a Texas cattle-trail legend, a lake, a fish hatchery, a 400-foot stone bridge, and a courthouse square that hasn't changed much since the WPA built the bridge down the road. Best in fall (color) and spring (wildflowers). The Graford-Brad Loop is a must-drive scenic experience. 

  • Oliver Loving Historical Marker & Overlook
  • Morris Sheppard Dam / Possum Kingdom Lake
  • Texas Parks & Wildlife Fish Hatchery
  • John Graves Scenic Riverway & Stone Arch Bridge
  • Historic Bankhead Hotel & downtown Strawn
  • Palo Pinto County Courthouse

Graford-Brad Loop
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The Stone Arch Bridge

Eighteen limestone arches, four hundred thirty-three feet, built by out-of-work coal miners who turned out to be excellent stonecutters. It's the longest masonry arch bridge in Texas, and it was engineered to take a flood straight on — which it has, more than once, without a scratch. Get here for golden hour. 

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Fish the Waters Graves Wrote About

This isn't stocked-pond fishing. The Brazos and Palo Pinto Creek run through the same wild, cliff-lined stretch Graves paddled — and it's some of the best fly water in North Texas. Professional guides runs trips right off the Riverway, wading or floating, for first-timers and veterans alike.

Wake up early, feelin' fresh.

Lots of places to stay, each with its own way into the water 

Palo Pinto County's got lodging for however you want to do this trip — historic hotels and Airbnbs in town, cabins scattered through the hills, resorts up at Possum Kingdom Lake. Wherever you land, you're never far from the river.

Just get in the water.

Rochelle's Canoe/Kayak Rental

 

No boat? No problem. Rent a canoe or kayak right at the water's edge and put in from there. Rochelle's is a multi-generational-family-owned business. They will put you on the water from Spring Break through Thanksgiving weekend. Cash only, and you must reserve your boat ahead of time. 

Hop in at Oak's Crossing

 

Public access, no rental, no fuss. Bring your own gear and walk straight down to the river. This is where the locals go to wade.